Frogs
Minimum Requirements
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Glass terrarium size depends on whether the frog is terrestrial or arboreal.
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A heat bulb on an appropriate thermostat.
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UVB lighting minimum 6-7%.
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A broad range calcium and vitamin supplements.
Terrarium
Set-up
Terrestrial frog such as Pac-man, tomato frogs require plenty of land space and so a low terrarium (45x45x45cm) to live in compared to tree frogs which require a taller terrarium (45x45x60cm)to be able to leap from branches.
Heating: The recommended heat source for glass terrariums are halogen and basking bulbs. Ceramics or Deep Heat Projectors can be particularly drying. All heat sources should be positioned at the same end of the terrarium to create a hot basking area. This allows for a temperature gradient so that the opposite end is cool. Thermostats regulate the temperature for you allowing for a stable and accurate temperature at all times within the vivarium. The positioning of the thermostat probe will depend on the dimensions of the enclosure. A basking temperature of 28ᵒC is ideal during the day. This should be monitored if you live in a specifically cold house. Babies are more susceptible to the cold so ensure you only turn the thermostat down at night to no lower than 18ᵒC. You must cage any heat bulbs used to prevent any accidental injuries if the frog can come into contact with it.
A digital thermometer/combi meter is recommended so that you can visually see what is happening concerning temperature and humidity in the basking area and cooler area.
UVB: UVB lighting is required for 12-14 hours a day. We recommend the T5 Pro 7% UVB lighting which should be placed on top of the terrarium to create a UVB gradient. The benefits of the T5 range are that the UVB wavelength can reach a further distance with a 12-month virtually guaranteed UVB output. Using a reflector increases the amount of UVB reflected down. Reptiles are adapted to live with strong UVB from above; ensure you position the UV lighting from above and not at eye level or within 45 degrees of the eye as this could cause severe damage (photo keratoconjunctivitis or cataracts).
If other UVB tubes are used ensure to replace them every 6 months unless the manufacturer advises otherwise.
Failure to provide the correct level of UVB lighting for your frog can result in irreversible metabolic bone disease.
The UVB output will continue to degrade even though it will continue to give off light.
Speak to a member of staff or check out our set up kits instore.
Do not position your enclosure in direct sunlight, a draft or near a radiator. This can affect the thermal gradient.
Cleaning, Substrate and Furnishings
There are two options for setting up a frogs enclosure. Bio-active with live plants or to decorate with fake plant. The bioactive set up allows for better humidity oxygen levels for your frogs as real plants are being used. Either set up will require spraying twice daily to keep the humidity at 65-80%. This is also required as frogs tend to drink from the droplets of water on the leaves. Dripper and misting systems can be used to simulate this for you. In either type of set up soil and moss are recommended as these are good at holding the humidity there is also success with orchid bark.
If not bio-active, the terrarium should be spot cleaned on a regular basis, if done thoroughly a full clean should only need to be done every 4-6 weeks. Ensure you only use disinfectants specifically intended for reptiles. Other products can be toxic. Bioactive require less cleaning as they have a clean up crew.
Ensure décor/furnishings are from a recognized dealer to ensure they’re safe for use with your chameleon. Chameleons require plenty of climbing material such as branches, vines, and plant coverage to climb and hide in. you will need a minimum of three plants for coverage.
Diet & Nutrition
Most frogs are insectivorous with a select few eating mice as well. Most are on insects every other day. Safe insects include locusts, crickets, fruit flies and Dubai roaches. Treats include waxworms. The best way to determine the amount of food your frog requires is to start with 6 hoppers and if they are all eaten straight away provide your frog with more until they actively stop chasing the food. Grubs and worms tend to be quite fatty, so only offer these 1-2 times a week. Morioworms and cockroaches can be difficult to digest so we would normally only provide these to mature frogs and only 1-2 times a week. The size of food you offer will depend on the species and their age. Dart frogs are small so will only be fed on micro crickets and fruit flies whereas Whites’ tree frogs will go through the sizes up to large standard crickets.
Remember never to leave excess food loose in the vivarium as they have the potential to cause injury to your animal.
A good quality vitamin, mineral and calcium supplement is necessary for the health and wellbeing of your frog. ALWAYS read the packaging carefully. We recommend nutrobal, Earthpro-A combined with Earthpro-Ca dusting twice a week on live food. If this duty is not fulfilled there is a risk of irreversible illnesses such as metabolic bone disease. Ensure live food is well gut-loaded before feeding to your pet ensure the food is of the highest quality. This can be done through products such as live food care packages or greens/carrots.
Fresh water should be provided daily.
Health &
Handling
If you are worried about your animals health, seek advice from a respected dealer and if still in double contact a specialist veterinarian. There are a few symptoms to monitor:
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Prolonged lack or loss of appetite – only if loosing weight
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Dehydration – skin being wrinkled.
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Cloudy, unclear or sticky eyes
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Discharge from the nose runny or bubbly
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Excess mucus around the mouth or not closing properly
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Prolonged diarrhoea
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Unable to right its self, dizzy appearance
During shedding it is best not to handle them as they can become irritated from this, it is also common for them to stop feeding around this time and behaviour to change and potentially strike out at you. For approximately a week the snakes eyes will glaze over and its body colour will appear duller before shedding. ALWAYS check your snake after shedding to ensure all the skin has come off. If your snake does not shed completely call your supplier or a vet for advice on how to remove the un-shed skin.
When first getting or moving your snake to a new enclosure, do not handle them until they have had at least 2 successful consecutive feeds in its now environment. This will give you a good indication that they are settled into their new home.
So you are ready to handle your snake; make sure not to ever doing directly towards its head this will inevitably end in you being bitten. Always let your snake know you are there before touching it. This does not mean to poke it. It means check your snake is awake – Snakes do not have eyelids so you cant check to see if they are away as easily. Is its tongue flicking or are their subtle movements? With more keen to feed or aggressive snakes push their head away using a snake stick/hook and bring the middle of the body towards you before handling. Ensure you support the snakes’ body but make sure not to squeeze. With any LARGER snakes it may be worth only handling when there are two people available. Sometimes, they do not know their own strength and can cause injury.